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Whenever compiling a roll of London’s finest dining spots, one might expect renowned award-winning names. However, tucked prominently among these food heavyweights is a modest salonu situated in a far-flung area of northern London.

A Unexpected Honour

The small Turkish spot, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the fourth best restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent gastronomic guide. This honour has made the owners completely astonished.

“I am utterly surprised,” says a family member, alluding to his parents’ dedication that led to their modest place earning such a high position on a respected 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Simplicity

The little venue, which used to be a basic cafe before its change into a popular destination, has maintained much of its original feel. It seats just more than 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking display, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy space,” notes the owner.

The Star Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all down to the food, and this eatery certainly delivers. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a succulent quality.

It is then added into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. Once the meaty mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to soak in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is rolled tightly inside.

It is usually consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a mighty punch of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The leading food critic described this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the restaurant’s künefe is a delight. It is soaked in lighter syrup than is typical, resulting in it a deeper, toastier and not overly sweet flavour.

Outranking the Titans

Notably, this modest restaurant has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant full for less than £25, similar experiences at top-tier establishments can start at many times that amount.

The Philosophy of Heart

It is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well beyond the city’s central zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. It is assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I don’t believe in that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is most important is hospitality, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This view is echoed by the list’s editor, who stated that if he was in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London train at this restaurant as a finishing school, to show them the dangers of overcomplication, and to reveal what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Path of Perseverance

In contrast to most chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food did not work at elite establishments. “I am really happy of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants need years to become successful, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum used to be very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a social life but her friends would visit to help her. She had children and a house to look after as well. All of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

An Accomplishment for the Culture

This restaurant’s accolade is bound to echo beyond its own premises. “I think numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the broader meaning of this culinary achievement.